This one caught our eyes when we were walking along Calle Crisologo in Vigan, Ilocos Sur.
We weren’t sure of the exact site where it will be rising, but the Kutcheros confirmed that Legacy Superclub will open in the middle of this UNESCO World heritage site, that same old house where the banner is posted.
We were speechless, didn’t really know what to say.
What are your thoughts about this?
Ah the single life! I leave whenever I want, go home anytime I want and most importantly, travel anywhere I want. I value my alone time so much that when Ron and I and some friends from the office went to Ilocos, I stayed one more day while everybody went home. As was expected, I had a blast.
The morning of my alone day was spent in coffee and cigarettes while playing with our dog Coco in our house in Vintar. It was a was a Sunday and the flee market was alive at 5am. I decided to walk around before heading out to the Campo Santo to visit my lolo and lola’s grave.
tobacco leaves for sale at the Sunday baratillo in Vintar
After the brief reunion, I took my bag and headed out to Laoag to get a jeep back to Paoay to meet my cousin who’s managing a film supposedly commissioned by the president. While he ran around the set like a headless chicken, I decided to get comfortable inside Henrencia, the famous restaurant in front of Paoay church and ordered myself a Pinakbet pizza. I thought those two words cannot be joined together but there I was eating with gusto. The crust was crispy thin with no hint of oil. The toppings: eggplant, string beans, okra and longganisa bits. On the side, bagoong isda. It was weird, but a good kind of weird.
Pinakbet Pizza at Herencia Cafe
After the short stay in Paoay, I took a bus going back to Vigan. I got there with no idea what to do. Luckily, I saw one of the calesas we rode when we first got there. I went to the burnayan (pottery shop) where I met Fidel Go, third generation of one of the few potters left in the province. He let me try to make them pots that turned out to be a disaster.
no, that wasn’t the vase I made…
After visiting the ginormous brick oven where they bake the pots, the calesa driver took me to Chavit Singson’s Baluarte where anyone can go in for free. It was already late in the afternoon and I wasn’t able to take pictures with the tigers. Boohoo…
Rudolph, the red-lipped raindeer
After the mini-zoo tour, I asked the driver to take me to a hotel where I can stay for just a few hours. I wanted to take a bath and fix my bag before I go home. He took me back to Grandpa’s Inn and I was able to get a room for 300Php for 3 hours. Yes, yes… I know what those rooms are for.
Conversation between me and the receptionist:
Me:Meron po bakayong kwarto na pwedeng pag stayan? 3 hours lang po.
Receptionist:Meron ma’am. Ilan po sila? (Take note, I was alone when I entered the hotel)
Me:Isa lang. Maliligo lang ako chaka mag-aayos ng bag bago umuwi. Galing pa kasi ako ng Laoag at Paoay tapos umikot ikot pa dito.
Receptionist:Sige po, meron kami. Mag-isa lang po ba talaga kayo?
Me:Ako nga lang mag-isa.
Receptionist:Ay, wala pong susunod?
Me:Wala.
Receptionist:Ahhh… Weird naman…
After dodging glances from the staff at the hotel, I went inside my room and enjoyed a hot bath, changed my clothes and fixed my backpack. I decided to eat at Max’s where I had to endure being asked why I was alone. Personally, I don’t know either…
I’ve been reading stories of other wanderlusts and adventurers like us who documented their quest in search of this allusive enchanting place. Many who have seen it unanimously agreed that it is truly a drop of paradise. Some failed and has to experience the horror of getting lost in the middle of a pitch dark forest.
So with all the interesting stories of getting there and enjoying a dip, I sworn not to miss taking a chance of seeing this falls hidden in the middle of the lush terrain of Pagudpud—The Kabigan.
I made sure that we get there before lunch time. For some reason, 6PM in Pagudpud is already dark, like 9PM dark. So never under estimate the sunlight cycle in this corner of the world. We reached the entrance leading to the path to the falls. It may look easy that you can just trace back the brook, or merely listening to the splash of falling water. But it’s trickier than you can imagine, a group of explorers from a travel magazine got lost in the middle of their trek to find the falls, they can hear that the source of splashing water is nearby but they can’t seem to find it, darkness swallowed them and that their only source of light would be their mobile phones. This is why a guide is required.
Local residents wearing an official guide shirt that says “guide” (duh!) are stationed at the entrance along the highway. They will just ask for a guide fee, but it’s really up to you on how much will you give. Be generous, think of it as help to local tourism and economy.
The trek took us around 30 minutes. I occasionally stop to take photos. A good pair of slippers and well expanded lungs came in handy. After crossing several brooks, slippery stones and carabao’s surprise (buffalo poop), we finally reached the enchanting destination. After snapping photos, we immediately stripped-off our shirts and took a dip. AND MAN! It was cold, it’s noontime but the water is chilling and crystallizing every single bit of my premature arthritis. Be careful not to bump anyone, your nipples might poke someone’s eye and kill them on the spot.
While everyone is enjoying a rejuvenating dip in the fantaserye-ish basin of clear water, Monette is sitting on a stone watching us dreamily “darn, wrong timing, it’s the time of the month” Other than that, I know for a fact that she’s also repeatedly telling herself:
“I should have brought my fairy wings… I should have brought my fairy wings…”
I was indeed an eco-trail, so we encourage responsible trekking: Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but pictures.
First things first, there’s no airport in Vigan. The nearest airport is in Laoag, about 2 hours bus ride away. Cebu Pacific Air flies twice daily (to and from). Vigan is a very small town, you can actually cover a complete itinerary in one day, so it’s a good idea to also check out other towns like Sta. Maria, Narvacan and probably some nearby beaches in La Union province.
For someone like me and Monette, this town is perfect to unleash the creative animals within us. She can just sit along the curb side, set on trans mode and start writing. As for me, I can walk around and be the clicker happy that I am.
It’s a town where everything moves slowly, so hurrying up to catch the pre-plotted itinerary isn’t exactly the fun way to enjoy the place.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotels and hostels within the blocks around the town center are mostly old houses. They decorate the house with all sorts of antique items ranging from flat iron converted to an ash tray to a make shift corner table out of an old sewing machine, and the list goes on. The interiors are basically colonial, they just put rooms and beds and a signage outside and voila! An antique thrift shop cum hostel. To some lone travelers who got wild imagination, you may want to look for a companion. Rooms resemble those that we see on classic horror films where you can expect to see Lilia Cuntapay materialize in the dark corner of your cold brick walled suite. Room rates are ranging form 700-1500 inclusive of Filipino breakfast. Grandpa’s Inn is where we stayed.
WHERE TO EAT
There are three ways to have a blast with your Vigan food trip.
Fine Dine at Cafe Leona where the perfect time to sit down and order would be at night where they have al fresco dining right at the end of Crisologo street. I never got the chance of eating out here during my recent trip, but a decade ago, the chokolate-E was 0h-so-wicked. I believe they also serve the good old Vigan faves like the bagnet (deep fried pork meat) and longanisa (Filipino garlic sausage).
Street Food trip is also popular among tourists and locals alike. Grab your bag of chichacorn (fried corn kernels) of a small box of cheesy royal bibingka (rice cake). This is a perfect snack while walking around the old town or riding a Kalesa.
Eat Vigan empanada at the park. Shredded lettuce, longanisa and whole egg wrapped with a hand rolled soft dough, then deep fried to perfection.
WHAT TO DO
Get a private kalesa, it’s the horse drawn carriage and a very eco-friendly means of transportation which started during the colonial era. I always wanted to just chill and ride one. Manila still got these iconic road runners, but it’s definitely not a good idea. The very essence of riding a kalesa is to enjoy the picturesque town and fresh air is an important element.
Kalesa ride costs around PhP 150/hour. There is a city ordinance that sets the fare so even if you want to haggle, you can’t. One thing is for sure, the kutcheros (drivers) are friendly and they are not as adamant as those from tourist traps elsewhere. They will tour you around the city. They will take you to several spots like Bantay church and bell tower, Baluarte and Burnayan.
Bantay Bell Tower
Old bell of Bantay Belfry
pottery of burnayan
WHAT TO BUY
Or what NOT? In the past, Vigan is the spot for antique collectors. They hold the biggest collection of colonial artifacts. Like their houses, the household knickknacks were perfectly preserved. But in recent decades, residents decided to just sell them to antique shops, foreign tourists and collectors. I’m not sure if I am fully against this trade, but it would be cool to leave these items in Vigan where they belong. I heard the number of antique items in this town is dwindling down.
Ilocos Sur skyline, view from the Bantay bell tower
From Manila, land transportation is one of the most economical, PhP 500-600 (one way). Travel time may vary depending on the traffic, it may take around 8 hours on a night trip and 10 hours on a day trip. Several bus companies are operating daily from Manila to Vigan:
Partas Transportation Co. (Cubao QC/Sampaloc Manila) – They can cut the travel time from 10 hours to 7. Drivers got a death wish.
Fariñas Transit Company (Lacson Sampaloc Manila) – Owned by a political family in Ilocos Norte, so people throwing stones is pretty normal, no worries, there’s no recorded casualties or injuries so far. The buses are pretty clean and brand new.
Florida Bus Line (Espana Manila) – Newest addition to the competing bus lines to the north. Known as the “Pink Bus”, obviously not owned by Bayani Fernando but the buses are pretty decent pretty girly decent.
Maria de Leon Bus (Dapitan Manila) – probably one of the oldest in the bunch. They got the friendliest staff but circulating rumors says: the drivers are as senile as the buses, they are really pros, however, the 10-hour trip may become 15 hours. The drivers tend to stop every 30 minutes to take a leak.
In a nutshell, Vigan is the place to visit if your life is moving faster than it should be, and you are dying to have a break. The place will help you recalibrate your pace with the universe, as you take your slow steps around this town of classic beauty and elegance, you will also get the chance to go back in time and enjoy the simple pleasures in life.
Ron
Ilocos Norte is the northernmost province in mainland Luzon. You actually get radio signals from Taiwan, that is if you’re still using a pre-historic walkman with FM band. The province got a long stretch of coastline with the terrain mainly slopes and hills. The northern tip of the province is Pagudpud, a small town covered with a crumpled blanket of hilly jungle. They even tag the Pagudpud beaches as the “Boracay of the North”.
There are buses going to Pagudpud from the city center of Laoag. Travel time is around 2 hours, unless you got a private van and a driver who formerly worked with Partas (bus with a death wish) who can zoom to Pagudpud in less than an hour. From Pagudpud town you can get a tricycle to the beach of your choice, we recommend Saud.
Another popular road stop is the lucrative Fort Ilocandia. Facing the South China Sea, it is located in the heart of the city of Laoag and the capital of Ilocos Norte. The resort is a complete service complex resort hotel. It’s a 10- minute drive from Fort Ilocandia Golf & Country Club in Paoay and from the Laoag International Airport. All these being said, don’t be surprised with the rates.
Another interesting spot in the heart of Laoag is the Sinking Bell Tower of St. William Cathedral. It’s a massive 45-meter bell tower said to be one of the tallest bell towers in the Philippines and was built by the Augustinians in 1612.
The tower has earned its “sinking” reputation because it is so heavy and it was built on sandy foundations that it has consistently sunk into the ground (estimated 1 cm yearly). Stories mention that a person on horseback could enter the tower with ease back when it was built. Now, a person of an average Filipino height has to bend down just to enter the vaulted entrance.
The town of Burgos has a heritage structure called the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, also known as Burgos Lighthouse. It is the highest-elevated lighthouse in the Philippines and the northwesternmost in location. Built in 1892 and still standing today, a perfect setting for a high fashion photo shoot with a Rapunzel peg. The climb up the hill will take around 15-20 minutes, climb up the tower’s spiral stair will cause 10 minutes of dizziness.
Having a quiet moment up the light house is priceless. We wished we could have stayed longer to just sit and stare blank across the scenic view of Cape Bojeador, the landscape looks something like that in Scotland.
Ever seen the Department of Tourism video where Regine Velasquez is strangling herself with an organza shawl? Behind her are the windmills of Bangui. These became popular mid 2000 among shutterbugs because of its strong visual impact. Bangui is a small 4th class municipality before reaching Pagudpud, and this wind farm is currently supplying 40% of electricity in the province.
Paoay is popular because of two prominent feature of the municipality. First is the Paoay Lake. Legend has it that it was the site of a baranggay filled with wicked people underwater after ignoring the warning of a mysterious old woman who came to the place. On the shores of the lake lies a mansion that belongs to the Marcoses. Second, the Paoay Church, one of the four Baroque churches that are inscripted as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Known for it’s sturdy coral stone structure and unique facade. Right across the street is a restaurant where you can eat Pinakbet Pizza (Oh yes, you read it right, monette will post something about it, soon!)
One of my favorite stop is the Kabigan Falls in Pagudpud, I’ve been reading and hearing a lot of things about this hidden gem in Pagudpud. We will be posting a separate story about this eco path.
We suggest that you drop by the town called Pasuquin for the local bakers treat, the Biscocho, available in soft and toasted variety. My favorite is the soft Biscocho, the moist bread got a hint of earthy taste and spice of some sort, which made me thinking and figuring-out that distinct aftertaste all through-out the trip. Another must try is the Empanada of Batac. Batac’s version is waaaay better than those in Vigan. Whole egg, garlic-y longganisa, cheese and fillers wrapped in a hand pressed soft dough and fried to perfection. Batac got the most wicked empanada in this part of the world, they even have this street treat in their town seal—Now beat that!
Ilocos Norte is one of the provinces where you need to get down and dirty when you do a road trip. There’s a lot of things to see and do, a weekend isn’t enough. To fully understand and experience the beauty of the province, you may need to take your time, talk to people, stay longer and walk off the beaten paths. The roads may be winding but it will always lead you to where you are heading, that’s for sure.
Ron
