flip'n travels

After our Kota Kinabalu stint last April, we were asked the question “How much was the damage?” for God knows how many times. So we stole this idea of post trip accounting from Nina Fuentes of justwandering.org

So here you go, once and for all

PART 1: MANILA TO CLARK

The only Airline that flies from Philippines to Kota Kinabalu is Air Asia, which embarks at Clark International Airport in Pampanga.

Bus from Quezon City to Dau – PhP 130

Tricycle to Clark gate – PhP 70

Private jeep to Clak Airport – PhP 200

Travel & Airport Taxes – PhP 1,650 + PhP 720

Other Options:

1. Shuttle from Megamall to Clark Airport – PhP 400
2. Bus from Manila to Dau – PhP 130 ——> Airport Shuttle to Clark – PhP 50

PART 2: KOTA KINABALU AND AROUND

cab from KK Airport to Hostel – MYR 30

food (average per meal) – MYR 10

Borneo Backpackers Accommodation (Air-conditioned Dorm bed/common bathroom; per bed/night) -  MYR 25

Tip: Everything in Kota Kinabalu is within walking distance, bus or cab rides  aren’t necessary.

PART 3 : MT. KINABALU

Shuttle to Park gate – MYR 15

Climbing guide (per group) – MYR 100

Conservation fee – MYR 15

Shuttle from Park gate to Timpohon gate – MYR 10

Sutera Sanctuary Package (per climber)- MYR 492

Inclusions:

• Panar Laban Accomodation for 1 night
• Packed lunch
• Buffet dinner, supper and breakfast at Laban Rata
• Post climb lunch at Balsam Restaurant
• Climbing permit
• Insurance

Cab from Park Gate to Kota Kinabalu – MYR 110

Tip: After the climb, the mini shuttle buses that we took going to the park where nowhere to be found, instead cab drivers were all waiting for tourist going back to the city. But we find it too expensive to at MYR 150. another option is to take the Ranau-KK Big Bus, but it was too late, the last bus left at 5 PM (MYR 20). Monette used her charm to a cab driver waiting across the street outside the gate. We got it for MYR 110, still too pricey.

PART 4: POST CLIMB

1 hour Body Massage – MYR 100

Souvenir/pasalubong shopping at the Sunday market – around MYR 50-100

Day trip to Palau Manukan – MYR 45

Inclusions:

• Speed Boat round trip
• Conservation Fee

Tips: Some employees at Jesselton Port and receptionist in the islands are Filipinos, they even actually offered us snorkeling gears for free, we could have taken it if it’s not for the horde of jellyfishes in the water.

PART 5: HEADING BACK HOME

Cab to KK Airport – MYR 30

Clark to Manila (see breakdown above)- PhP 250

Traveling alone will definitely be more expensive at a mark up of at least 20% as compared to the expenses if you’re traveling with someone. In our case, for a 4 days / 4 nights in Kota Kinabalu, we spent around PhP 17,000 (excluding airfare) and we spent a huge portion of that (PhP 7,000) for our climb. Pricey we know, actually our priciest to date considering the length of the trip.

The town of Siem Reap is a provincial capital, a concrete oasis sprouted out of the vast land of scattered temples, rice fields and jungle. It has its own international airport and a fair share of first class accommodations. No building is higher than three floors and most of the establishments are converted or made to cater tourists from all over the world, that is in a form of hotels, restaurants, massage parlors, bars and the list goes on. Pub street (where our hostel is located) is the heart of the town. Beer is flowing 24/7 and looking around, majority of the populace walking were tourists from US and Europe, there’s not a lot of Asian travelers (Other than those groups of Koreans wearing a field trip uniform shirt and hat).

Food is one of the many things I love about this place, it’s inexpensive and the flavors charmed our  palates. The taste of dishes in Indochina has a unified theme: the presence of coconut milk, noodles, rice, chili peppers, myriads of spices and (of course) hints of lime. But Cambodian cuisine maintained an identity and character unique from the neighboring countries.

A vendor selling Le’s Hal. Dried river shells with salt and chili.

It’s always a warning for tourists to be careful of what to eat in this side of the continent, but HECK! We want it down and dirty! I’m a nurse and part of my pre-trip preparation is to make sure I can perform first aid in cases of ailments (from diarrhea to mild myocardial infarct).

Upon arrival, I was half expecting that a vendor would approach us to sell some sort of sautéed tarantula or a jungle bug hors d’oeuvre, but it didn’t happen. So we just made-use of the menus in Pub street restaurants flooded with American/European retirees for our pseudo–Cambodian food trip.

Yes, in Cambodia they have a sweet and spicy delicacy called A-ping (Fried Skuon Tarantula), don’t fret, it’s just like eating crablets!

After feasting on our late breakfast at Common Grounds, we walked across the town center. Upon passing along Pub street we noticed that there’s one common poster outside the resto’s—BEER 25c/bottle. And ANGKOR BEER is the best I tasted to date. Too bad, I can’t bring some bottles back home. Bought a souvenir shirt though.

Due to our limited budget, we cannot try all the dishes in the menu, we chose those dishes that were recommended by our friend Meang.

Amok is the most popular Cambodian dish among tourists. If you can’t brave eating sautéed tarantula (Skuon a-ping), then this one could be for you. It’s a cod fish fillet bathe and stewed in a concoction of coconut milk, turmeric, paprika, curry powder, ginger, garlic, chili pepper, kaffir lime and fish sauce (aka. kroeung). We tried out several varieties served in different restaurants, but my favorite is the one served at Kkmer Family Restaurant in Pub street.

Loc Lac is Stir fried cubed beef served with fresh red onions, served on a bed of lettuce, cucumbers, and tomatoes and dipped in a sauce consisting of lime juice and/or black pepper. This is derived from the Vietnamese dish known as Bò lúc lac. It’s not Vietnamese, but khmer krom cuisine. Khmer krom are indigenous khmers in southern Vietnam.

Kuyteav, a rice stick noodle soup which is one local specialty that we tried. We bought it from the carinderia-style or street vendor make-shift restaurant. This is the tuktuk drivers’ favorite hang-out place while waiting for the tourists. It’s around 5,000 riels (about US$1) per serving. The lady kept on refilling my bowl before I even actually consume half of it.

One interesting place where you can dine, talk and hang-out is Temple Bar along Pub street. They got an al fresco cafe right outside, a Club on the first floor and a balcony restaurant upstairs.

They have an Apsara performance every night, showcasing the traditional dance and music of Cambodia. Meang, reserved a table for us on our last night in Siem Reap, it is usually fully booked so make sure to reserve in the morning before hitting the road to Angkor.

We didn’t really get the right opportunity to give the Cambodian Cuisine a fair chance due to our limited budget. There’s a lot gastronomic kitchens to explore, from the familiar treats like the counterpart of the Filipino Balut to the exotic and unique arachnoid-fear factor-ish cuisine adventure. And maybe next time we will get a shot to try their famous ‘Happy’ Pizza (wink!). So we promised to go back… SOON!

The first densely populated city in history should be credited to the Angkor Civilization. And the capital of this ginormous city is Angkor Thom. At its height, Angkor Thom may have governed a population of one million people in the surrounding area. Outranking Paris, London and Cairo.

Means “The Great City” in Khmer language, it was founded by Angkor’s greatest king, Jayavarman VII (reigned 1181-1219), who came to power following the defeat of the former Khmer capital by the Chams blah blah blah…

Angkor Thom was built in a nearly perfect square, the sides of which run north to south and east to west. It was surrounded by a square wall (jayagiri) 8m high and 12km in length and further protected by a 100m-wide moat (now dry), said to have contained ferocious crocodiles.

A gate opens exactly in the middle of each wall, from which a bridge extends over the moat to the area outside the royal city. The original royal palace at Angkor Thom, built in the 10th and 11th centuries, was probably built of wood and no longer stands.

The vast area of the Angkor Thom ruins, over a mile on one side, contains many stone temples and other features to explore. The city has five monumental gates (one in each wall plus an extra in the eastern wall), 20m high and decorated with stone elephant trunks and the king’s favorite motif, the four faces of Avalokiteshvara.

Each gate, which leads onto a causeway across the moat, is flanked with statues of 54 gods on the left and 54 demons on the right. This is a theme from the Hindu myth of the Churning of the Milk-Ocean (illustrated in the famous bas-relief atAngkor Wat).

The south gate is the best restored and most popular, but also the most busy since it leads directly to Angkor Wat. The east and west gates, found at the end of uneven trails, are more peaceful. The east gate was used for a scene in the Tomb Raider movie, in which the bad guys broke into the “tomb” by pulling down a giantapsara (actually made of polystyrene).

The causeway leading to the gate of Angkor Thom is my personal favorite.

TIP: When you visit Angkor Thom, don’t forget to bring bottles of water (lots of it), sunblock, sunglasses, towel or umbrella. It can really be scorching hot and dusty.

Here are some of the popular structures inside Angkor Thom:

The Terrace of the Leper King is a decorative platform topped by a statue surrounded by four lesser statues, each facing away from the central statue. The central figure is probably a Khmer ruler who allegedly died of leprosy, either Yasovarman I or Jayavarman VII.

The Terrace of the Elephants served as a viewing platform for royal parties and depicts elephants and garuda (a mythical bird-like creature).

Probably the the center structure of this civilization is the Bayon Temple (circa 1190) is a Buddhist temple but retains elements of Hindu cosmology and imagery. Standing in the exact center of the walled city, it represents the intersection of heaven and earth. It is known for its enigmatic smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara and its extraordinary bas-reliefs.

The Bayon’s most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and massive stone faces on the many towers which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak.

Bayon Temple is popular among tourists and pilgrims alike, Buddhist monks are paying homage particularly to this structure because the only Angkorian state temple to be built primarily as a Mahayana Buddhist shrine dedicated to the Buddha.

The temple is known also for two impressive sets of bas-reliefs, which present an unusual combination of mythological, historical, and mundane scenes.

The outer gallery: depictions of historical events and everyday life

The inner gallery: depictions of mythical events

A bit north of the Bayon is the stalwart Baphuon, a temple built in 1066 that is in the process of being put back together in a way that gives visitors an idea of what original temple construction might have been like.

The temple is said to be a huge jigsaw puzzle. Scholars said it was the Tower of Bronze…a truly astonishing spectacle, with more than ten chambers at its base.’ In the late 15th century, the Baphuon was converted to a Buddhist temple. A 9 meter tall by 70 meter long statue of a reclining Buddha was built on the west side’s second level, which probably required the demolition of the 8 meter tower above, thus explaining its current absence. The temple was built on land filled with sand, and due to its immense size the site was unstable throughout its history. Large portions had probably already collapsed by the time the Buddha was added.

Phimeanakas Temple, located on the site of the now-disappeared royal palace, is another pyramidal representation of Mt. Meru. Most of the decorative features are broken or have disappeared, but it is an interesting structure and can be climbed for good views of Baphuon Temple.

click here for the map of Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom is huge, during it’s glorious years, its span is even bigger than Manhattan.  Reading through historical materials before hitting the road is really a must to fully appreciate its beauty. We totally ignored the scorching heat of the equatorial summer sun when we were there. Raveling Angkor Thom’s rich past was enough to fill a whole day of our itinerary.

reference : http://www.sacred-destinations.com/cambodia/angkor-thom

I’ve been reading stories of other wanderlusts and adventurers like us who documented their quest in search of this allusive enchanting place. Many who have seen it unanimously agreed that it is truly a drop of paradise. Some failed and has to experience the horror of getting lost in the middle of a pitch dark forest.

So with all the interesting stories of getting there and enjoying a dip, I sworn not to miss taking a chance of seeing this falls hidden in the middle of the lush terrain of Pagudpud—The Kabigan.

I made sure that we get there before lunch time. For some reason, 6PM in Pagudpud is already dark, like 9PM dark. So never under estimate the sunlight cycle in this corner of the world. We reached the entrance leading to the path to the falls. It may look easy that you can just trace back the brook, or merely listening to the splash of falling water. But it’s trickier than you can imagine, a group of explorers from a travel magazine got lost in the middle of their trek to find the falls, they can hear that the source of splashing water is nearby but they can’t seem to find it, darkness swallowed them and that their only source of light would be their mobile phones. This is why a guide is required.

Local residents wearing an official guide shirt that says “guide” (duh!) are stationed at the entrance along the highway. They will just ask for a guide fee, but it’s really up to you on how much will you give. Be generous, think of it as help to local tourism and economy.

The trek took us around 30 minutes. I occasionally stop to take photos. A good pair of slippers and well expanded lungs came in handy. After crossing several brooks, slippery stones and carabao’s surprise (buffalo poop), we finally reached the enchanting destination. After snapping photos, we immediately stripped-off our shirts and took a dip. AND MAN! It was cold, it’s noontime but the water is chilling and crystallizing every single bit of my premature arthritis. Be careful not to bump anyone, your nipples might poke someone’s eye and kill them on the spot.

While everyone is enjoying a rejuvenating dip in the fantaserye-ish basin of clear water, Monette is sitting on a stone watching us dreamily “darn, wrong timing, it’s the time of the month” Other than that, I know for a fact that she’s also repeatedly telling herself:

“I should have brought my fairy wings… I should have brought my fairy wings…”

I was indeed an eco-trail, so we encourage responsible trekking: Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but pictures.

First things first, there’s no airport in Vigan. The nearest airport is in Laoag, about 2 hours bus ride away. Cebu Pacific Air flies twice daily (to and from).  Vigan is a very small town, you can actually cover a complete itinerary in one day, so it’s a good idea to also check out other towns like Sta. Maria, Narvacan and probably some nearby beaches in La Union province.

For someone like me and Monette, this town is perfect to unleash the creative animals within us. She can just sit along the curb side, set on trans mode and start writing. As for me, I can walk around and be the clicker happy that I am.

It’s a town where everything moves slowly, so hurrying up to catch the pre-plotted itinerary isn’t exactly the fun way to enjoy the place.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotels and hostels within the blocks around the town center are mostly old houses. They decorate the house with all sorts of antique items ranging from flat iron converted to an ash tray to a make shift corner table out of an old sewing machine, and the list goes on. The interiors are basically colonial, they just put rooms and beds and a signage outside and voila! An antique thrift shop cum hostel. To some lone travelers who got wild imagination, you may want to look for a companion. Rooms resemble those that we see on classic horror films where you can expect to see Lilia Cuntapay materialize in the dark corner of your cold brick walled suite. Room rates are ranging form 700-1500 inclusive of Filipino breakfast. Grandpa’s Inn is where we stayed.

WHERE TO EAT

There are three ways to have a blast with your Vigan food trip.

Fine Dine at Cafe Leona where the perfect time to sit down and order would be at night where they have al fresco dining right at the end of Crisologo street. I never got the chance of eating out here during my recent trip, but a decade ago, the chokolate-E was 0h-so-wicked. I believe they also serve the good old Vigan faves like the bagnet (deep fried pork meat) and longanisa (Filipino garlic sausage).

Street Food trip is also popular among tourists and locals alike. Grab your bag of chichacorn (fried corn kernels) of a small box of cheesy royal bibingka (rice cake). This is a perfect snack while walking around the old town or riding a Kalesa.

Eat Vigan empanada at the park. Shredded lettuce, longanisa and whole egg wrapped with a hand rolled soft dough, then deep fried to perfection.

WHAT TO DO

Get a private kalesa, it’s the horse drawn carriage and a very eco-friendly means of transportation which started during the colonial era. I always wanted to just chill and ride one. Manila still got these iconic road runners, but it’s definitely not a good idea. The very essence of riding a kalesa is to enjoy the picturesque town and fresh air is an important element.

Kalesa ride costs around PhP 150/hour. There is a city ordinance that sets the fare so even if you want to haggle, you can’t. One thing is for sure, the kutcheros (drivers) are friendly and they are not as adamant as those from tourist traps elsewhere. They will tour you around the city. They will take you to several spots like Bantay church and bell  tower, Baluarte and Burnayan.

Bantay Bell Tower

Old bell of Bantay Belfry

pottery of burnayan

WHAT TO BUY

Or what NOT? In the past, Vigan is the spot for antique collectors. They hold the biggest collection of colonial artifacts. Like their houses, the household knickknacks were perfectly preserved. But in recent decades, residents decided to just sell them to antique shops, foreign tourists and collectors. I’m not sure if I am fully against this trade, but it would be cool to leave these items in Vigan where they belong. I heard the number of antique items in this town is dwindling down.

Ilocos Sur skyline, view from the Bantay bell tower

From Manila, land transportation is one of the most economical, PhP 500-600 (one way). Travel time may vary depending on the traffic, it may take around 8 hours on a night trip and 10 hours on a day trip. Several bus companies are operating daily from Manila to Vigan:

Partas Transportation Co. (Cubao QC/Sampaloc Manila) – They can cut the travel time from 10 hours to 7. Drivers got a death wish.

Fariñas Transit Company (Lacson Sampaloc Manila) – Owned by a political family in Ilocos Norte, so people throwing stones is pretty normal, no worries, there’s no recorded casualties or injuries so far. The buses are pretty clean and brand new.

Florida Bus Line (Espana Manila) – Newest addition to the competing bus lines to the north. Known as the “Pink Bus”, obviously not owned by Bayani Fernando but the buses are pretty decent pretty girly decent.

Maria de Leon Bus (Dapitan Manila) – probably one of the oldest in the bunch. They got the friendliest staff but circulating rumors says: the drivers are as senile as the buses, they are really pros, however, the 10-hour trip may become 15 hours. The drivers tend to stop every 30 minutes to take a leak.

In a nutshell, Vigan is the place to visit if your life is moving faster than it should be, and you are dying to have a break. The place will help you recalibrate your pace with the universe, as you take your slow steps around this town of classic beauty and elegance, you will also get the chance to go back in time and enjoy the simple pleasures in life.

Ron