flip'n travels

The sun baked our skins as we made our way out of the Grand Palace feeling bitter and shunned by everything Thai. We wanted to turn our lucks by walking towards nowhere thinking we’d probably stumble upon something interesting, like a drag queen who looks like Lady Gaga. A tuktuk driver spider-sensed that we were confused and disoriented and approached us with a plan. “I’ll take you to two temples for free if you can drop by to this tailor shop that I know,” he said. Too tired to argue, we hopped on to his mechanical beast and drove off to the shop.

hahahaha… ha!

Like what Ron mentioned in the previous article, these tuktuk drivers commission their passengers to visit jewelry shops and tailor shops in exchange for gas coupons. The receptionist welcomed us with disappointment. He knew we were just looking around… We really didn’t care. The first day, we were taken to this huge jewelry factory (not sure if this is the appropriate term) and the lady kept insisting Ron to buy me a ring. People! If you could just lend me your ears… We are NOT dating! So anyway, we hopped back on to the tuktuk and asked the driver to just take us wherever it was he was going to take us.

Luang Pho To at the Wat Indravihan Temple

A guy selling birds for offering

Flowers for sale

A faithful

The driver took us to Wat Indravihan Temple where a huge well-known statue of the Buddha stands. The 32-meter tall and 11-meter wide edifice is called Luang Pho To and was built during the reign of King Rama IV. It was noticeable that the place was very much like Quiapo with the noise and number of people roaming around the complex. At some point, I really thought that the guy barking his merchandise sounded like the guy facilitating a BINGO game on the sidewalk. It was so chaotic that I practically dragged Ron out and back into the tuktuk and told the the driver to take us to the last of the temples he suggested.

Not sure if this is Wat Bowon Niwet or Wat Ratchanatdaram… Pft!

So the driver rode off and parked at a seemingly nice temple. We went inside. It was closed. We were not amused…

It was about 3pm when we got back to the hostel. We dumped our bags and went to 711 and had lunch. Back at Lub*d, we went straight to the PC and updated our statuses to hateful bantering. I decided to get my book and read and Ron obtundedly sat inside the hostel room. Clearly, at about 4pm in the afternoon of our second day in Bangkok, the day was officially over.

After our anticlimactic Muay Thai momentus-interruptus and we finally convinced ourselves that watching two amateur fighters throwing bravado on each other is too high a price, we headed of the most beaten path in Bangkok.

Upon entrance in the grand palace, Monette rented a mothball smelling cover-up. Apparently, we were entering the most sacred temple in Bangkok and her tank top was too revealing that monks may get an unwanted wood works.

hor phra monthian dharma

It was mid-day and it seemed like clouds were not so popular in Thailand. It was too hot it can make straight hair curl, and gay men straight. Despite that, we still tried savoring every single minute inside the temple complex. After an hour, we barely moved and we were still within 20 meters away from the entrance.

giant yak in front of hor phra monthian dharma

phra siratana chedi

kinnorns (a mythological creature, half bird, half man) adorning prasat phra debidorn

It was uncomfortably hot to sketch and taking photos was a painful effort. There were lots of tourists loitering the complex and so the numerous distractions were hovering us unstoppably. So we just sat, looked around, watched tourists, stared blankly in front of a Chedi.

Temples of Wat Phra Kaew are actually… well they’re… pretty… and… sorry I’m short of words to say. Just like the over-used break-up excuse, I would sincerely say–It’s not the place, it’s me!I may have to blame the route that we took, because Siem Reap is definitely a hard act to follow. Wrong order of destination.

Siem Reap temples invoke unexplainable emotions. You stand there and you feel that you are standing in the presence of something great and magnificent and ancient. You feel one with the environment. Temples in Bangkok are nice, don’t get us wrong. The intricate designs, wonderful carvings, detailed paintings and tedious mosaics are all pleasing to the eye. It’s just that seeing them within the city with all the other buildings takes away the spiritual essence of such religious edifices. They’re just… buildings…

The comatose-inducing boredom was broken when another tourist approached us, telling us we better hurry because the complex will close in an hour.

“What the F*ck!? How come the lady in the ticket booth didn’t tell us that the king and queen of Malaysia were in town and that they will be closing the palace!”

Unbelievable! That meant we barely had an hour to explore the 218,000 sqm complex. GREAT!

notice our pictures from hereon… fake smiles or no smiles at all…

We tried demanding for a refund, but what’s the point of arguing if the one whom you’re talking to cannot even conjugate a clear message.

ME: “we want a refund, we just bought the ticket an hour ago”
Ticket Lady: “Yes?”
ME: “we want a refund, you didn’t tell us that you will be closing at 1:00 PM”
Ticket Lady: “No, ticket not wasted, can go to Vimanmek”
ME: “But we haven’t seen 80% of the Grand Palace!”
Ticket Lady: “yes?”
ME: “NAK NG TOKWA NAMAN ’TEH O!”

We gave up the hopeless battle and asked what gate we’re suppose to exit. They unanimously pointed us towards the other end of the square. So we walked under the scorching sun and reached the other end of the enclosure wall just to find out—they sent us to the WASH ROOM!

After 30 minutes of trying to find the exit, we found ourselves outside the walls of the Grand Palace, just in time for the arrival of the entourage of the king and queen of Malaysia. We decided to leave the scene before our schizophrenic selves ran amok because of the harsh deprivation. And no, this was not the last of the mishaps we encountered that day.

So… why don’t we continue the story… in the next entry…

After the uneventful arrival in Bangkok, we found ourselves taken to Lub*d, our home for the next three days before going back to the pain of reality. Yes, we do have day jobs we sadly keep to finance this capricious traveling lifestyle.

We were greeted by a modern building with wooden chairs and tables filled with tourists. Ahhh, the familiar smell of home… Clearly, we were smitten. We did not realize we were standing at the ultimate highlight of what Bangkok had to offer, at least for Ron and I.

We entered the hotel and checked in. After settling inside our room, Ron suddenly felt claustrophobic and decided to find another room with windows. Luckily for us, we were able to transfer in no time. Yes, the rooms were a bit small, but the clever industrial design made us forget we had to breathe at times.

The place is just peachy. Wonderful interiors with huge solid beams that can kill you IF they drop, a spacious lounge area where you can sit all day and drink beer while smoking and reading your book, a mini library where you can borrow and trade books, a recreation area with dozens of board games, about 10-15 PC’s with free internet access so you can update your statuses on Facebook, a fancy looking café slash diner that serves meals and drinks. We even saw a mini theater on the second floor. Truly, why did we even think of going out into the wild urban jungle of Bangkok when everything we needed was there? The answer still escapes me until now.

If you count the hours we spent sightseeing Bangkok and staying inside the hotel, you’d be amazed on how we spent much of our precious vacay time drinking ourselves to stupor and chatting with friends online. Picture this: a glorious day with the sun shining warm and bright and most of the guests were either buried in the PC’s or watching movies. We were supposed to be in one of the most exciting places to be in on earth and I was locked in our room writing a poem on sadness while Ron updated his blog.

Yes, this is a prelude to articles that will come of our vacation in Thailand. But in the meantime, let me share an enlightening conversation I had with one of the receptionists in Lub*d…

Me in our room, calling the reception area:

Me: Hi! Is this the Lobby?
Receptionist: Yes, this is Lub*d.
Me: I know, but is this the reception? the Lobby? I need to ask some questions.
Receptionist: Yes, Lub*d. You like reservations?
Me: No, I’m already here. Are you the receptionist?
Receptionist: Yes, we are Lub*d, in Decho Road.
Me: I know this is Lub*d! I’m staying at Silom 22! I’m asking if this IS the reception, the LOBBY!
Receptionist: Yes, this is Lub*d.
Me: Okay, THAT’S IT! I’m coming down!

Knowing locals and immersing in their everyday lives  are the things that we never failed doing whenever we go out on a trip. It’s a leaning, enriching and inspiring experience. It makes us feel like toddlers all over again–ignorant and clueless as blank slates.

My favorite subject is people, particularly children. Watching them while they play (or work), inspires us to sit down and start writing and tell their stories. Or, take their pictures, to show their smiles and how they see the world through their unclouded eyes.

Each one got something to say and a story to tell. We draw courage to ask and play the game of charades to send the messages across. Most of the time, a moment of non-verbal interaction is enough for us to feel the non-categorical connection.

We saw dreams, desires, beliefs and an candid emotions of people we stumbled-upon. We are the strangers, and they are the generous hosts who openned their doors for us.

We still believe in the innate kindness of people, and that a simple gestures like a nod or a smile to a stranger will open-up barriers of social connections. We have met amazing characters as we walk around the towns, cities and unbeaten paths. We’re lucky to keep some of them and maintain constant lines of connection.

Though there were some that we barely got the chance of knowing them, not even asking for their names. At times we failed getting their email addresses and phone numbers, simply because they don’t have one. Our only remembrance of them would be those moments that we captured through the lenses of our cameras and inks blotted on our journals.

We are truly grateful to the Khmer people, for opening up their lives and letting us in… qualmlessly.

There is such a thing as being lost to reality. A reality spun by ancient dream weavers so that what you see is a reflection of what used to be. Angkor’s magic is like such, and we were willing to get lost in its web. 

Banteay Srei, also known as the ‘Citadel of Women’ or ‘Citadel of Beauty’ because of its intricate carvings, was said to have been dedicated to Yajnyavahara, a courtier of King Rajendravarman, who was known for his philantrophy. Originally known as Tribhuvanamahesvara — great lord of the threefold world, the temple is greatly dedicated to Shiva and partly to Vishnu.  

The carvings are more pronounced here than anywhere else as the great Hindu stories of the old lend themselves to the the red sandstone from which the temple is made of. The pediments, the roughly triangular spaces above rectangular doorways or openings, depict scenes from Ramayana while lintels, horizontal beams spanning the gap between two posts, support the reliefs and at the same time, decorate doorways with carvings of numerous apsara dancers. 

A few minutes of tuk-tuk ride and we found ourselves rounding the pools of Neak Pean meaning ‘The Entwined Serpents’ or ‘Coiled Serpents’, deriving the name from the Nagas (snakes) that encirle the temple. King Jayavarman VII had this built for medical purposes. The Hindu belief of balance is shown with the presence of four pools representing Earth (elephant), Wind (man), Fire (lion) and Water (horse). They are connected by the main pool at the center where the statue of Bahala (Bodhisattva Guan Yin transformed into a horse) ferries the people to safety.  

We are long gone from the surreal world that is Angkor, but the images are as real as if I can touch them in a handspan. We can’t wait to be lost in her arms once again…

Once, Shiva, a very powerful god, grew tired of the cycle of life and death and reincarnations. He decided to give up the pleasures of life and he smeared his body in ash and he didnt eat or drink or indulge in any physical pleasure. This created a terrible fire within him. It transformed him into a blazing lingam which threatened to destroy all creation. The other gods didnt know what to do. A yoni appeared, the symbol of the goddess. She absorbed Shiva’s terrible heat, restoring balance to the world and saving the universe from destruction. Thus is the one of the many origins of the Shiva Lingam.

Phnom Kulen which houses Kbal Spean, otherwise known as ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’ or ‘Bridgehead’ is located 50 kilometers northeast of Siem Reap. A 45-minute hike is required to get to the temple which predates the construction of Angkor Wat by 200 years. The trail was steep and Ron and I were sweating like fabulous pigs…

 The river found in the mountains is the source of the Siem Reap River. The lingas were carved to bless the water that would eventually flow past Bayon continuing to Bantea Srei and into the plains of Angkor. 

Aside from the ligams carved on the face of the riverbed, an impresive carving of the trimurti of Hindu gods can be seen. Vishnu is seen reclining to give birth to Brahma from a lotus growing out of his navel. Shiva with his consort Uma is also present.

In 2003, the head of Vishnu was robbed. It was restored August 2006.

The most faithful of all kisses is that of the sun on the rock. The sun’s rays would touch upon its face, never leaving it till it sets. And even at that, when the sun lends it’s light on the other side of the earth, and the earth is no more, there is still the rock and the kiss that never betrays…

The sun sets on our first day in Cambodia as we were led by a steady crowd up the stairs of Phnom Bakheng. It served as King Yasovarman I’s state temple at the center of the new capital city Yasodharapura. It’s foundation, carved from the existing hill rather than the usual laterites and earthfill other temples used.

After a long day’s tour of different temples in Siem Reap, tourists would converge to this hilltop to end the day in longing. Overlooking Tonle Sap Lake and Angkor Wat in a distance, one can hear the stones creak a silent music you only hear when you close your eyes while everyone bled in red, blue and orange.

walking downhill

elephant rides range from $10US-$15US

child selling trinkets

monks waiting for the end of the world

We were drowning in colors.

Ah the single life! I leave whenever I want, go home anytime I want and most importantly, travel anywhere I want. I value my alone time so much that when Ron and I and some friends from the office went to Ilocos, I stayed one more day while everybody went home. As was expected, I had a blast.

The morning of my alone day was spent in coffee and cigarettes while playing with our dog Coco in our house in Vintar. It was a was a Sunday and the flee market was alive at 5am. I decided to walk around before heading out to the Campo Santo to visit my lolo and lola’s grave.

tobacco leaves for sale at the Sunday baratillo in Vintar

After the brief reunion, I took my bag and headed out to Laoag to get a jeep back to Paoay to meet my cousin who’s managing a film supposedly commissioned by the president. While he ran around the set like a headless chicken, I decided to get comfortable inside Henrencia, the famous restaurant in front of Paoay church and ordered myself a Pinakbet pizza. I thought those two words cannot be joined together but there I was eating with gusto. The crust was crispy thin with no hint of oil. The toppings: eggplant, string beans, okra and longganisa bits. On the side, bagoong isda. It was weird, but a good kind of weird.

Pinakbet Pizza at Herencia Cafe

After the short stay in Paoay, I took a bus going back to Vigan. I got there with no idea what to do. Luckily, I saw one of the calesas we rode when we first got there. I went to the burnayan (pottery shop) where I met Fidel Go, third generation of one of the few potters left in the province. He let me try to make them pots that turned out to be a disaster.

no, that wasn’t the vase I made…

After visiting the ginormous brick oven where they bake the pots, the calesa driver took me to Chavit Singson’s Baluarte where anyone can go in for free. It was already late in the afternoon and I wasn’t able to take pictures with the tigers. Boohoo…

Rudolph, the red-lipped raindeer

After the mini-zoo tour, I asked the driver to take me to a hotel where I can stay for just a few hours. I wanted to take a bath and fix my bag before I go home. He took me back to Grandpa’s Inn and I was able to get a room for 300Php for 3 hours. Yes, yes… I know what those rooms are for.

Conversation between me and the receptionist:

Me:Meron po bakayong kwarto na pwedeng pag stayan? 3 hours lang po.
Receptionist:Meron ma’am. Ilan po sila? (Take note, I was alone when I entered the hotel)
Me:Isa lang. Maliligo lang ako chaka mag-aayos ng bag bago umuwi. Galing pa kasi ako ng Laoag at Paoay tapos umikot ikot pa dito.
Receptionist:Sige po, meron kami. Mag-isa lang po ba talaga kayo?
Me:Ako nga lang mag-isa.
Receptionist:Ay, wala pong susunod?
Me:Wala.
Receptionist:Ahhh… Weird naman…

After dodging glances from the staff at the hotel, I went inside my room and enjoyed a hot bath, changed my clothes and fixed my backpack. I decided to eat at Max’s where I had to endure being asked why I was alone.  Personally, I don’t know either…

To love, they say, is to be steady… But the heart cannot help but wander in between dreams.

Faro Cabo Cape Bojeador, Burgos, Ilocos Norte

Our journey to the north found its first stop at Cape Bojeador in Burgos, Ilocos Norte. Sitting on top of Vigia de Nagparitan hill, it is considered to be the highest positioned lighthouse in the Philippines, also the most visited. Its light marks the northwestern corner of the island of Luzon, guiding ships traveling from South China Sea.

NorthWind Bangui Bay Project, Bangui, Ilocos Norte

We drifted a bit father north and made our next stop in Bangui where the largest “wind farm” in Southeast Asia is located. The 15 towering windmills provide 40% of the power requirements of Ilocos Norte and serve as an attempt to practice renewable energy sources to help reduce the greenhouse gases that cause global warming.

Final stopover before Pagudpod

Over the course of my 26 years, I have traveled back and forth to Ilocos, it being a second home to me and my family. My heart wanders aimlessly but I am forever tied to its roots…

MONETTE

Finally posting the best breakfast I had, ever…

Ever woke up to the smell of coffee being brewed, bacon slowly being crisped, eggs sunny-side-upped, and fresh croissant bread being baked? You can almost taste the air. That must be what Sundays taste like. We literally woke up with smiles on our faces knowing a heavenly breakfast awaited us at Common Grounds Coffee and Cyber Cafe. They have the most amazing menu ranging from American breakfast to grilled cheese sandwiches to salads to smoothies that are to die for. Ron and I however, gorged on their bacon and egg sandwich and drowned in their iced coffees for three straight days. They even included a fruit bowl of tropical fruits including my favorite, pitaya!

The interior of the place is very relaxing with comfortable chairs and soft lighting. They also have free wi-fi! And the people were more than amiable. They were cheerful and very hospitable. One of them even remembered my name when I went back the second day. I was so ashamed, and still am now, as I am a goldfish and tend to forget a lot of things. I love how they made our simple breakfast seem like a 5-star hotel entrée. Served in lovely ceramic plates, they even included cold towels with mint scent to freshen tired guests before they eat their meals.

Ran by the non-profit organization People for Care and Learning, this place not only serves great meals but also helps the community in setting up micro-enterprise development and training. During the time we were there, the band “The Saturn Project” from America had a benefit concert to support the Relocation of the Poor Project. We were scheduled to visit the spa that last night but when I learned of a rock concert, I had to ditch the aromatherapy session and leave Ron to the mercy of fish doctors and decided to cap my Cambodian vacation with great music.

Make sure you visit this place when you go to Siem Reap. You will definitely forget Starbucks…

Common Grounds Coffee and Cyber Cafe
Address : 719 – 721, Street 19 Siem Reap
Behind the Old Market near ANZ
Phone : 063 965 687
Store Hours: 7:00am to 10:00pm