flip'n travels

Knowing locals and immersing in their everyday lives  are the things that we never failed doing whenever we go out on a trip. It’s a leaning, enriching and inspiring experience. It makes us feel like toddlers all over again–ignorant and clueless as blank slates.

My favorite subject is people, particularly children. Watching them while they play (or work), inspires us to sit down and start writing and tell their stories. Or, take their pictures, to show their smiles and how they see the world through their unclouded eyes.

Each one got something to say and a story to tell. We draw courage to ask and play the game of charades to send the messages across. Most of the time, a moment of non-verbal interaction is enough for us to feel the non-categorical connection.

We saw dreams, desires, beliefs and an candid emotions of people we stumbled-upon. We are the strangers, and they are the generous hosts who openned their doors for us.

We still believe in the innate kindness of people, and that a simple gestures like a nod or a smile to a stranger will open-up barriers of social connections. We have met amazing characters as we walk around the towns, cities and unbeaten paths. We’re lucky to keep some of them and maintain constant lines of connection.

Though there were some that we barely got the chance of knowing them, not even asking for their names. At times we failed getting their email addresses and phone numbers, simply because they don’t have one. Our only remembrance of them would be those moments that we captured through the lenses of our cameras and inks blotted on our journals.

We are truly grateful to the Khmer people, for opening up their lives and letting us in… qualmlessly.

There is such a thing as being lost to reality. A reality spun by ancient dream weavers so that what you see is a reflection of what used to be. Angkor’s magic is like such, and we were willing to get lost in its web. 

Banteay Srei, also known as the ‘Citadel of Women’ or ‘Citadel of Beauty’ because of its intricate carvings, was said to have been dedicated to Yajnyavahara, a courtier of King Rajendravarman, who was known for his philantrophy. Originally known as Tribhuvanamahesvara — great lord of the threefold world, the temple is greatly dedicated to Shiva and partly to Vishnu.  

The carvings are more pronounced here than anywhere else as the great Hindu stories of the old lend themselves to the the red sandstone from which the temple is made of. The pediments, the roughly triangular spaces above rectangular doorways or openings, depict scenes from Ramayana while lintels, horizontal beams spanning the gap between two posts, support the reliefs and at the same time, decorate doorways with carvings of numerous apsara dancers. 

A few minutes of tuk-tuk ride and we found ourselves rounding the pools of Neak Pean meaning ‘The Entwined Serpents’ or ‘Coiled Serpents’, deriving the name from the Nagas (snakes) that encirle the temple. King Jayavarman VII had this built for medical purposes. The Hindu belief of balance is shown with the presence of four pools representing Earth (elephant), Wind (man), Fire (lion) and Water (horse). They are connected by the main pool at the center where the statue of Bahala (Bodhisattva Guan Yin transformed into a horse) ferries the people to safety.  

We are long gone from the surreal world that is Angkor, but the images are as real as if I can touch them in a handspan. We can’t wait to be lost in her arms once again…

Once, Shiva, a very powerful god, grew tired of the cycle of life and death and reincarnations. He decided to give up the pleasures of life and he smeared his body in ash and he didnt eat or drink or indulge in any physical pleasure. This created a terrible fire within him. It transformed him into a blazing lingam which threatened to destroy all creation. The other gods didnt know what to do. A yoni appeared, the symbol of the goddess. She absorbed Shiva’s terrible heat, restoring balance to the world and saving the universe from destruction. Thus is the one of the many origins of the Shiva Lingam.

Phnom Kulen which houses Kbal Spean, otherwise known as ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’ or ‘Bridgehead’ is located 50 kilometers northeast of Siem Reap. A 45-minute hike is required to get to the temple which predates the construction of Angkor Wat by 200 years. The trail was steep and Ron and I were sweating like fabulous pigs…

 The river found in the mountains is the source of the Siem Reap River. The lingas were carved to bless the water that would eventually flow past Bayon continuing to Bantea Srei and into the plains of Angkor. 

Aside from the ligams carved on the face of the riverbed, an impresive carving of the trimurti of Hindu gods can be seen. Vishnu is seen reclining to give birth to Brahma from a lotus growing out of his navel. Shiva with his consort Uma is also present.

In 2003, the head of Vishnu was robbed. It was restored August 2006.

The most faithful of all kisses is that of the sun on the rock. The sun’s rays would touch upon its face, never leaving it till it sets. And even at that, when the sun lends it’s light on the other side of the earth, and the earth is no more, there is still the rock and the kiss that never betrays…

The sun sets on our first day in Cambodia as we were led by a steady crowd up the stairs of Phnom Bakheng. It served as King Yasovarman I’s state temple at the center of the new capital city Yasodharapura. It’s foundation, carved from the existing hill rather than the usual laterites and earthfill other temples used.

After a long day’s tour of different temples in Siem Reap, tourists would converge to this hilltop to end the day in longing. Overlooking Tonle Sap Lake and Angkor Wat in a distance, one can hear the stones creak a silent music you only hear when you close your eyes while everyone bled in red, blue and orange.

walking downhill

elephant rides range from $10US-$15US

child selling trinkets

monks waiting for the end of the world

We were drowning in colors.

Aaahhh Cambodia… We watch it in travel documentaries, we read it in history books, we saw it in Tomb Raider, we talk about it and dream about it. Who would’ve thought we’d see it this lifetime? It was almost surreal arriving at the Siem Reap Airport. And when we were greeted by our host Meang together with the tuk-tuk driver Piron, we felt like we were in a dream… Mainly because he said “kamusta?” which is “how are you?” in Tagalog, Ron and I instantly reacted in unison–”Pilipino ka?”. Meang is fluent in Tagalog because he spent several years in Makati to study and work.

The pick-up was free and it’s good old Khmer style ride–The Tuktuk. we were taken on a sight seeing pre-tour around the city. It was scorching hot but the fact that I am inhaling Cambodian dust was enough for me to suck in my complaints and enjoy the ride.

I booked a different hotel initially but Ron decided to change it after seeing the website for Prohmroth Guesthouse. When we got there, I was happy we decided to make the change. The room was nothing short of perfect. It was huge and homey and our toilet tissue was pink. We had our own bathroom and a queen-sized bed which was totally opposite of what we had in Kuala Lumpur. We opened the window and there was a temple that greeted us. I had to restrain myself from taking bricks that are shaped like little buddhas.

View from our room

But it wasn’t really just the nice ambiance and the huge bed that would make us book this hotel again when we go back to Cambodia. It’s Meangsophean Suon and his family that made our experience wonderful to the Nth power. He arranged our tuk-tuk ride for three days. He gave us tips on our tour. He reserved a seat for us when we wanted to watch Apsara. He even took Ron on a food trip on our last night. He was more than a landlord to us and up until now, we still keep corresponding. We would never want to stay anywhere else.

Facade of Prohm Roth Guesthouse

Ron with our Khmer friends

Prohm Roth Guesthouse
# 251 Pub Street extension, Phum Mondul I,Khum Svay Dangkum,
Siem Reap Angkor City, Kingdom Of Cambodia.
Phone: +855 (0)12 46 64 95, (0)17 356 817
Email: prohmroth_guesthouse@yahoo.com or smart_khmer@yahoo.com

FLIP’N PERKS: when you arrive/book for reservation, tell them that you heard it from us, and they will give you a discount!

Check out what other backpackers has to say, CLICK HERE!

and oh! they got the best hotel/hostel breakfast that we experienced to date. That one deserves a separate article.