flip'n travels

Knowing locals and immersing in their everyday lives  are the things that we never failed doing whenever we go out on a trip. It’s a leaning, enriching and inspiring experience. It makes us feel like toddlers all over again–ignorant and clueless as blank slates.

My favorite subject is people, particularly children. Watching them while they play (or work), inspires us to sit down and start writing and tell their stories. Or, take their pictures, to show their smiles and how they see the world through their unclouded eyes.

Each one got something to say and a story to tell. We draw courage to ask and play the game of charades to send the messages across. Most of the time, a moment of non-verbal interaction is enough for us to feel the non-categorical connection.

We saw dreams, desires, beliefs and an candid emotions of people we stumbled-upon. We are the strangers, and they are the generous hosts who openned their doors for us.

We still believe in the innate kindness of people, and that a simple gestures like a nod or a smile to a stranger will open-up barriers of social connections. We have met amazing characters as we walk around the towns, cities and unbeaten paths. We’re lucky to keep some of them and maintain constant lines of connection.

Though there were some that we barely got the chance of knowing them, not even asking for their names. At times we failed getting their email addresses and phone numbers, simply because they don’t have one. Our only remembrance of them would be those moments that we captured through the lenses of our cameras and inks blotted on our journals.

We are truly grateful to the Khmer people, for opening up their lives and letting us in… qualmlessly.

There is such a thing as being lost to reality. A reality spun by ancient dream weavers so that what you see is a reflection of what used to be. Angkor’s magic is like such, and we were willing to get lost in its web. 

Banteay Srei, also known as the ‘Citadel of Women’ or ‘Citadel of Beauty’ because of its intricate carvings, was said to have been dedicated to Yajnyavahara, a courtier of King Rajendravarman, who was known for his philantrophy. Originally known as Tribhuvanamahesvara — great lord of the threefold world, the temple is greatly dedicated to Shiva and partly to Vishnu.  

The carvings are more pronounced here than anywhere else as the great Hindu stories of the old lend themselves to the the red sandstone from which the temple is made of. The pediments, the roughly triangular spaces above rectangular doorways or openings, depict scenes from Ramayana while lintels, horizontal beams spanning the gap between two posts, support the reliefs and at the same time, decorate doorways with carvings of numerous apsara dancers. 

A few minutes of tuk-tuk ride and we found ourselves rounding the pools of Neak Pean meaning ‘The Entwined Serpents’ or ‘Coiled Serpents’, deriving the name from the Nagas (snakes) that encirle the temple. King Jayavarman VII had this built for medical purposes. The Hindu belief of balance is shown with the presence of four pools representing Earth (elephant), Wind (man), Fire (lion) and Water (horse). They are connected by the main pool at the center where the statue of Bahala (Bodhisattva Guan Yin transformed into a horse) ferries the people to safety.  

We are long gone from the surreal world that is Angkor, but the images are as real as if I can touch them in a handspan. We can’t wait to be lost in her arms once again…

Once, Shiva, a very powerful god, grew tired of the cycle of life and death and reincarnations. He decided to give up the pleasures of life and he smeared his body in ash and he didnt eat or drink or indulge in any physical pleasure. This created a terrible fire within him. It transformed him into a blazing lingam which threatened to destroy all creation. The other gods didnt know what to do. A yoni appeared, the symbol of the goddess. She absorbed Shiva’s terrible heat, restoring balance to the world and saving the universe from destruction. Thus is the one of the many origins of the Shiva Lingam.

Phnom Kulen which houses Kbal Spean, otherwise known as ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’ or ‘Bridgehead’ is located 50 kilometers northeast of Siem Reap. A 45-minute hike is required to get to the temple which predates the construction of Angkor Wat by 200 years. The trail was steep and Ron and I were sweating like fabulous pigs…

 The river found in the mountains is the source of the Siem Reap River. The lingas were carved to bless the water that would eventually flow past Bayon continuing to Bantea Srei and into the plains of Angkor. 

Aside from the ligams carved on the face of the riverbed, an impresive carving of the trimurti of Hindu gods can be seen. Vishnu is seen reclining to give birth to Brahma from a lotus growing out of his navel. Shiva with his consort Uma is also present.

In 2003, the head of Vishnu was robbed. It was restored August 2006.

It was early morning when Monette literally pulled me out of the bed. We need to rush to Srah Srang in time for the break of dawn to witness the rumored “best place to see the sunrise.” According to most tourists: the most popular place during sunrise is Angkor Wat. So that means everyone is expected to flood the temple, and to avoid the crowd, we took the other path, a crowd like that of Phnom Bahkeng during sunset will defeat the purpose of watching the sunrise.

TIP: Most tuk tuk driver will be familiar with Srah Srang. If you are on a packaged tour, your tour coach may also stop by here for you to have a look. However, you are likely to see it somewhere in the day time, not the perfect time for shutterbugs. Some may charge an additional $5-$10 if you want to go there before sunrise. If you’re traveling independently from Siem Reap, the fastest way to reach Srah Srang is to take the road from Siem Reap to Angkor Wat. When you see the moat of Angkor Wat, turn right (turning left takes you to Angkor Thom). After a short distance, you will pass Prasat Kravan on your right. After another distance you will see Banteay Kdei on the left, and Srah Srang on the right.

Srah Srang is right in front of Banteay Kdei (Dancers’ Hall)

It was our third day in Siem Reap. Misty-humid (relatively clean) air of summer night penetrated every single alveolar sac of my lungs. Upon waking-up and after a quick shower, I grabbed my sling bag, passport, wallet, a bottle of water and my camera. I jumped off Prohm Roth Hotel in my mismatched outfit,  Piron (our Tuktuk driver) was waiting outside flashing a big smile as usual.

Two blocks away after hitting the road, we realized that the ascaris lumbricoides’ in our guts were already begging for food. So we stopped at the town center to grab something to eat, early morning vendors are selling freshly baked baguettes and French bread. I suddenly missed our pan de sal in Sampaloc (darn).

Still sluggish and half awake, Monette and I tried covering our faces with towel to prevent ingesting flying insects hitting our faces as we run 90 kph across the highway in the middle of the lush forest. In no time, we reached the 900 year old man made lake, around 10-15 tourists (and an army of vendors, mostly kids) were already in the site, excited first timers like us were either setting-up cameras or choosing a good spot for meditation. I stood at the edge of the flatform landing facing the glassy water of the baray—a good vantage point to watch and take pictures of the sunrise.

Then we waited…

When the sun starts peeking out the horizon, everyone froze, speechless and jaws dropped on the floor. In a matter of minutes, we saw the color of the sky changed seamlessly.

From jet black to prussian to palatinate to crimsons to salmon to vermilion to chartreuse

It was truly the best sunrise that I witnessed to date.

It’s very timely to post this at the eve of the turn of the decade. The experience at Srah Srang was revitalizing, a metaphor of rebirth and fresh start. Like the sun kissing the new day ahead, anticipating the arrival of the morning light made me reflect not only on the recent days but the year that was.

I felt brand new.

The second decade of the 21^st century is here.

HAPPY NEW DECADE EVERYONE!

GO 2010!
oooh, 2010—so Jetsons! love it!

The most faithful of all kisses is that of the sun on the rock. The sun’s rays would touch upon its face, never leaving it till it sets. And even at that, when the sun lends it’s light on the other side of the earth, and the earth is no more, there is still the rock and the kiss that never betrays…

The sun sets on our first day in Cambodia as we were led by a steady crowd up the stairs of Phnom Bakheng. It served as King Yasovarman I’s state temple at the center of the new capital city Yasodharapura. It’s foundation, carved from the existing hill rather than the usual laterites and earthfill other temples used.

After a long day’s tour of different temples in Siem Reap, tourists would converge to this hilltop to end the day in longing. Overlooking Tonle Sap Lake and Angkor Wat in a distance, one can hear the stones creak a silent music you only hear when you close your eyes while everyone bled in red, blue and orange.

walking downhill

elephant rides range from $10US-$15US

child selling trinkets

monks waiting for the end of the world

We were drowning in colors.

We did not wait for the next day to explore Angkor. After dumping our luggage and a quick shower we hit the road to see the majestic and the star destination in Cambodia–The Angkor Wat.

Tips: Passes are required to enter the Angkor area. They are on sale at the front gate for 1 (US$20), 3 (US$40), or 7 (US$60) days. You shouldn’t need to buy a pass for your guide or your driver. The passes are non-transferable and include a photograph of the owner. The photograph is taken at the counter. Note that regular checks for the pass are performed at almost all sites within the park, so carry your pass with you at all times, and be certain to buy the passes only from the official Apsara Authority counters, not from other vendors and definitely not second-hand.

We thought we have to bring passport size photo for the temple ID , which Monette forgotten that we have to look for a photo studio in Kuala Lumpur. Apparently, the Apsara Authority upgraded their ticketing system recently, they will take a digital photo right when you pay the ticket in the booth. So, Monette’s PhP200 Polaroid photo is out the window (thank you virtual tourist).

The moment we saw the prasats (central temple towers) of Angkor Wat from afar, we couldn’t help but burst into restrained shrieks. My hands were trembling that I couldn’t take a good shot of the structure.

Who wouldn’t be amazed by huge structures so masterfully crafted that every inch of its walls decorated with intricate depiction of history and religion, spanning the land area the size of Manhattan. What’s even more amazing is that after it’s glory, they mysteriously vanished. The inhabitants abandoned the city for unknown reason.

I can really talk non-stop about my amazement with this subject, but you can simply watch this Documentary video for an Angkor Wat 101:  Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5

Angkor was the capital of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to the 15th centuries.  It was founded on political and religious ideas adapted from India, and the temples of Angkor were intended as a place of worship for the king and a way for him to ensure his immortality through identification with the Hindu gods. Angkor Wat was built by King Suryavarman II in the 12th century as a vast funerary temple that would hold his remains, symbolically confirming his permanent identity with Vishnu.

Many of the bas-reliefs in the temple depict scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, Hindu sacred texts that recount the adventures of two major incarnations of Vishnu.

Fact: The Khmer empire was one of the most prosperous and sophisticated kingdoms in the history of Southeast Asia, and its prosperity was expressed through a wide range of architecture, way advanced during its time, and it was the first densely populated city in civilization history.

Angkor Wat, in present-day Cambodia, formed part of the capital of the Khmer Empire, and is probably the largest religious monument ever constructed. Built over a 30-year period with sandstone and laterite, the rectangular structure (2,800 by 3,800 feet) faces west, in Hindu belief the direction taken by the dead when going to their next life.

A single article isn’t enough… so watch out for more.

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RON

Aaahhh Cambodia… We watch it in travel documentaries, we read it in history books, we saw it in Tomb Raider, we talk about it and dream about it. Who would’ve thought we’d see it this lifetime? It was almost surreal arriving at the Siem Reap Airport. And when we were greeted by our host Meang together with the tuk-tuk driver Piron, we felt like we were in a dream… Mainly because he said “kamusta?” which is “how are you?” in Tagalog, Ron and I instantly reacted in unison–”Pilipino ka?”. Meang is fluent in Tagalog because he spent several years in Makati to study and work.

The pick-up was free and it’s good old Khmer style ride–The Tuktuk. we were taken on a sight seeing pre-tour around the city. It was scorching hot but the fact that I am inhaling Cambodian dust was enough for me to suck in my complaints and enjoy the ride.

I booked a different hotel initially but Ron decided to change it after seeing the website for Prohmroth Guesthouse. When we got there, I was happy we decided to make the change. The room was nothing short of perfect. It was huge and homey and our toilet tissue was pink. We had our own bathroom and a queen-sized bed which was totally opposite of what we had in Kuala Lumpur. We opened the window and there was a temple that greeted us. I had to restrain myself from taking bricks that are shaped like little buddhas.

View from our room

But it wasn’t really just the nice ambiance and the huge bed that would make us book this hotel again when we go back to Cambodia. It’s Meangsophean Suon and his family that made our experience wonderful to the Nth power. He arranged our tuk-tuk ride for three days. He gave us tips on our tour. He reserved a seat for us when we wanted to watch Apsara. He even took Ron on a food trip on our last night. He was more than a landlord to us and up until now, we still keep corresponding. We would never want to stay anywhere else.

Facade of Prohm Roth Guesthouse

Ron with our Khmer friends

Prohm Roth Guesthouse
# 251 Pub Street extension, Phum Mondul I,Khum Svay Dangkum,
Siem Reap Angkor City, Kingdom Of Cambodia.
Phone: +855 (0)12 46 64 95, (0)17 356 817
Email: prohmroth_guesthouse@yahoo.com or smart_khmer@yahoo.com

FLIP’N PERKS: when you arrive/book for reservation, tell them that you heard it from us, and they will give you a discount!

Check out what other backpackers has to say, CLICK HERE!

and oh! they got the best hotel/hostel breakfast that we experienced to date. That one deserves a separate article.

I am really excited to blog about Angkor Wat. But I don’t know where to start. I’m still under anesthesia while I’m writing this, a perfect time to reminisce the moment I first set foot in the land of the Angkor. What I’m feeling right now (or not feeling) is the same numbness I felt when I’m flying across the land lock plains of Cambodia. I was so excited I can’t feel the tips of my fingers and toes. Buergers Disease? Diabetes? or simply bliss?

I live in an archipelago, ocean view is always (the most) an hour drive away from any point in the country. That’s why it felt unreal flying over a vast of land where you cant see a sign of body of water in the horizon. I can’t remember hearing the plane engine or the flight attendant asking us to fasten our seat belt. It was a moment of trans, I honestly remember hearing a solitary string instrument playing that moment. This is another time in my life that I will remember every single second of its realization.

Touching the walls and pillars of Angkor Wat is more than a dream come true. 3 miles above sea level, I started seeing all shades of green and brown fields. Like a huge mosaic of rice paddies and lush forest. Monette is on a different isle, so while the aircraft is descending I was talking to myself “Where are the Temples?… Where are the Temples?”

You cannot see the temples from the plane, however, there’s one Angkorian structure you cannot possibly miss from overhead, The West Baray. from the ground it looks like any other huge lake, but from above it’s a ginormous rectangular swimming pool the size of Sampaloc Manila.

Fact: the magnitude of the Angkor complex was discovered using satellite images, scholars thought Angkor is just as big as Manhattan, apparently it’s just the main temple compound. but the lost civilization’s temples and ancient archeological site is spanning a land the size of Los Angeles, and it’s still growing.

The moment the aircraft hit the runway, you can see everyone’s stretching their necks waiting for the announcement that we have arrived. you can feel the anxiety inside the plane. The flight attendant even called the attention of an Korean passenger, “SIR PLEASE REMAIN SEATED!” he’s too anxious to get his bags that he stood up even before the aircraft came to a full stop. And I can’t blame him.

As I walked down the tarmac, It felt like I’m floating, gliding down as the tip of my toe touches the soil.

“Finally, I am really here!”

I’m sorry I’m not really a sentimental blogger, but this amazing trip deserves proper prologue and rolling of drums.

here’s a teaser