flip'n travels

The sun baked our skins as we made our way out of the Grand Palace feeling bitter and shunned by everything Thai. We wanted to turn our lucks by walking towards nowhere thinking we’d probably stumble upon something interesting, like a drag queen who looks like Lady Gaga. A tuktuk driver spider-sensed that we were confused and disoriented and approached us with a plan. “I’ll take you to two temples for free if you can drop by to this tailor shop that I know,” he said. Too tired to argue, we hopped on to his mechanical beast and drove off to the shop.

hahahaha… ha!

Like what Ron mentioned in the previous article, these tuktuk drivers commission their passengers to visit jewelry shops and tailor shops in exchange for gas coupons. The receptionist welcomed us with disappointment. He knew we were just looking around… We really didn’t care. The first day, we were taken to this huge jewelry factory (not sure if this is the appropriate term) and the lady kept insisting Ron to buy me a ring. People! If you could just lend me your ears… We are NOT dating! So anyway, we hopped back on to the tuktuk and asked the driver to just take us wherever it was he was going to take us.

Luang Pho To at the Wat Indravihan Temple

A guy selling birds for offering

Flowers for sale

A faithful

The driver took us to Wat Indravihan Temple where a huge well-known statue of the Buddha stands. The 32-meter tall and 11-meter wide edifice is called Luang Pho To and was built during the reign of King Rama IV. It was noticeable that the place was very much like Quiapo with the noise and number of people roaming around the complex. At some point, I really thought that the guy barking his merchandise sounded like the guy facilitating a BINGO game on the sidewalk. It was so chaotic that I practically dragged Ron out and back into the tuktuk and told the the driver to take us to the last of the temples he suggested.

Not sure if this is Wat Bowon Niwet or Wat Ratchanatdaram… Pft!

So the driver rode off and parked at a seemingly nice temple. We went inside. It was closed. We were not amused…

It was about 3pm when we got back to the hostel. We dumped our bags and went to 711 and had lunch. Back at Lub*d, we went straight to the PC and updated our statuses to hateful bantering. I decided to get my book and read and Ron obtundedly sat inside the hostel room. Clearly, at about 4pm in the afternoon of our second day in Bangkok, the day was officially over.

After our anticlimactic Muay Thai momentus-interruptus and we finally convinced ourselves that watching two amateur fighters throwing bravado on each other is too high a price, we headed of the most beaten path in Bangkok.

Upon entrance in the grand palace, Monette rented a mothball smelling cover-up. Apparently, we were entering the most sacred temple in Bangkok and her tank top was too revealing that monks may get an unwanted wood works.

hor phra monthian dharma

It was mid-day and it seemed like clouds were not so popular in Thailand. It was too hot it can make straight hair curl, and gay men straight. Despite that, we still tried savoring every single minute inside the temple complex. After an hour, we barely moved and we were still within 20 meters away from the entrance.

giant yak in front of hor phra monthian dharma

phra siratana chedi

kinnorns (a mythological creature, half bird, half man) adorning prasat phra debidorn

It was uncomfortably hot to sketch and taking photos was a painful effort. There were lots of tourists loitering the complex and so the numerous distractions were hovering us unstoppably. So we just sat, looked around, watched tourists, stared blankly in front of a Chedi.

Temples of Wat Phra Kaew are actually… well they’re… pretty… and… sorry I’m short of words to say. Just like the over-used break-up excuse, I would sincerely say–It’s not the place, it’s me!I may have to blame the route that we took, because Siem Reap is definitely a hard act to follow. Wrong order of destination.

Siem Reap temples invoke unexplainable emotions. You stand there and you feel that you are standing in the presence of something great and magnificent and ancient. You feel one with the environment. Temples in Bangkok are nice, don’t get us wrong. The intricate designs, wonderful carvings, detailed paintings and tedious mosaics are all pleasing to the eye. It’s just that seeing them within the city with all the other buildings takes away the spiritual essence of such religious edifices. They’re just… buildings…

The comatose-inducing boredom was broken when another tourist approached us, telling us we better hurry because the complex will close in an hour.

“What the F*ck!? How come the lady in the ticket booth didn’t tell us that the king and queen of Malaysia were in town and that they will be closing the palace!”

Unbelievable! That meant we barely had an hour to explore the 218,000 sqm complex. GREAT!

notice our pictures from hereon… fake smiles or no smiles at all…

We tried demanding for a refund, but what’s the point of arguing if the one whom you’re talking to cannot even conjugate a clear message.

ME: “we want a refund, we just bought the ticket an hour ago”
Ticket Lady: “Yes?”
ME: “we want a refund, you didn’t tell us that you will be closing at 1:00 PM”
Ticket Lady: “No, ticket not wasted, can go to Vimanmek”
ME: “But we haven’t seen 80% of the Grand Palace!”
Ticket Lady: “yes?”
ME: “NAK NG TOKWA NAMAN ’TEH O!”

We gave up the hopeless battle and asked what gate we’re suppose to exit. They unanimously pointed us towards the other end of the square. So we walked under the scorching sun and reached the other end of the enclosure wall just to find out—they sent us to the WASH ROOM!

After 30 minutes of trying to find the exit, we found ourselves outside the walls of the Grand Palace, just in time for the arrival of the entourage of the king and queen of Malaysia. We decided to leave the scene before our schizophrenic selves ran amok because of the harsh deprivation. And no, this was not the last of the mishaps we encountered that day.

So… why don’t we continue the story… in the next entry…

After the uneventful arrival in Bangkok, we found ourselves taken to Lub*d, our home for the next three days before going back to the pain of reality. Yes, we do have day jobs we sadly keep to finance this capricious traveling lifestyle.

We were greeted by a modern building with wooden chairs and tables filled with tourists. Ahhh, the familiar smell of home… Clearly, we were smitten. We did not realize we were standing at the ultimate highlight of what Bangkok had to offer, at least for Ron and I.

We entered the hotel and checked in. After settling inside our room, Ron suddenly felt claustrophobic and decided to find another room with windows. Luckily for us, we were able to transfer in no time. Yes, the rooms were a bit small, but the clever industrial design made us forget we had to breathe at times.

The place is just peachy. Wonderful interiors with huge solid beams that can kill you IF they drop, a spacious lounge area where you can sit all day and drink beer while smoking and reading your book, a mini library where you can borrow and trade books, a recreation area with dozens of board games, about 10-15 PC’s with free internet access so you can update your statuses on Facebook, a fancy looking café slash diner that serves meals and drinks. We even saw a mini theater on the second floor. Truly, why did we even think of going out into the wild urban jungle of Bangkok when everything we needed was there? The answer still escapes me until now.

If you count the hours we spent sightseeing Bangkok and staying inside the hotel, you’d be amazed on how we spent much of our precious vacay time drinking ourselves to stupor and chatting with friends online. Picture this: a glorious day with the sun shining warm and bright and most of the guests were either buried in the PC’s or watching movies. We were supposed to be in one of the most exciting places to be in on earth and I was locked in our room writing a poem on sadness while Ron updated his blog.

Yes, this is a prelude to articles that will come of our vacation in Thailand. But in the meantime, let me share an enlightening conversation I had with one of the receptionists in Lub*d…

Me in our room, calling the reception area:

Me: Hi! Is this the Lobby?
Receptionist: Yes, this is Lub*d.
Me: I know, but is this the reception? the Lobby? I need to ask some questions.
Receptionist: Yes, Lub*d. You like reservations?
Me: No, I’m already here. Are you the receptionist?
Receptionist: Yes, we are Lub*d, in Decho Road.
Me: I know this is Lub*d! I’m staying at Silom 22! I’m asking if this IS the reception, the LOBBY!
Receptionist: Yes, this is Lub*d.
Me: Okay, THAT’S IT! I’m coming down!

Knowing locals and immersing in their everyday lives  are the things that we never failed doing whenever we go out on a trip. It’s a leaning, enriching and inspiring experience. It makes us feel like toddlers all over again–ignorant and clueless as blank slates.

My favorite subject is people, particularly children. Watching them while they play (or work), inspires us to sit down and start writing and tell their stories. Or, take their pictures, to show their smiles and how they see the world through their unclouded eyes.

Each one got something to say and a story to tell. We draw courage to ask and play the game of charades to send the messages across. Most of the time, a moment of non-verbal interaction is enough for us to feel the non-categorical connection.

We saw dreams, desires, beliefs and an candid emotions of people we stumbled-upon. We are the strangers, and they are the generous hosts who openned their doors for us.

We still believe in the innate kindness of people, and that a simple gestures like a nod or a smile to a stranger will open-up barriers of social connections. We have met amazing characters as we walk around the towns, cities and unbeaten paths. We’re lucky to keep some of them and maintain constant lines of connection.

Though there were some that we barely got the chance of knowing them, not even asking for their names. At times we failed getting their email addresses and phone numbers, simply because they don’t have one. Our only remembrance of them would be those moments that we captured through the lenses of our cameras and inks blotted on our journals.

We are truly grateful to the Khmer people, for opening up their lives and letting us in… qualmlessly.

Yes, this is an addendum to what Monette just posted couple of days back. Banteay Srei trully deserves an encore.

Unlike other temples in Angkor, Banteay Srei is not within the cluster of structures surrounding Angkor Wat. It is 25 km (15 miles) north-east of the main group of temples, around 30 minutes drive away from center.

On the way to this so called “citadel of women”, you will pass by the outskirts of Siem Reap, and seeing Khmer locals in their everyday life is absolutely a treat to backpackers like us. I couldn’t help but start snapping photos, the tuktuk was running really fast and I was panning to catch the subject to a point that I almost got a whiplash.

Known for its red pink colored sandstone blocks and its intricate design, Banteay Srei made visitors and French explorers be allured by its refined craftsmanship. It was built in the year 967, during the lean period of Great Angkor construction era. Among all excavated shrines and structures, it is speculated that its designers spent a tremendous amount of time working on its exterior, that’s why there’s no single inch left unadorned. It is also said that the reliefs on this temple are so delicate that they could only have been carved by the hand of a woman.

It is considered a miniature structure as compared to the temple standards. When we entered the outer gopura through an entrance port about a meter and a half high (less than half of the usual Angkorian Style), I got a feeling that I was entering a baroque doll house, I even got a hunch that it was particularly constructed for children. Could this be a some sort of a playground or mock temple for Khmer youngsters? Whatever it may be, it’s absolutely MAGICAL!

The tiny details of wall carving are unique among the Angkor region’s ancient temples, it  made every visitors lean over the cordon ropes to better see the intricate details of the stones. Named as the “Jewel of the Khmer Art” it’s a must-see for temple buffs and wandering junkies who are into historical relics specially if they are fond of Ramayana and Mahabharata.

One of the adorned pediment shows Narasimha clawing Hiranyakasipu.

But as for me and Monette, a quiet time with her book and my camera in a small nook in this thousand year-old art piece is enough reason for us to stop for a moment from our insatiable drive to explore.

Now, let’s go to the other pole of the continuum. Back to the main complex right outside the walls of Angkor Thom, a massive temple mountain is sturdily standing amidst the lush forest of Siem Reap–Ta Keo.

Unlike all other temples, Ta Keo doesn’t have carvings on it’s walls. The prasat are just plain piles of  blocks as carving had just begun when the construction stopped. Scholars suggest that a high priest who became minister of Suryavarman I says that a lightning strike hit the unfinished building, it was considered as an evil omen, so they halted the construction immediately. Another theory is that construction stopped simply because of the death of Jayavarman V, as there was a struggle for succession.

From the outside it looks stern and apathetic, but clear interpretations of strength and invincibility are unanimous among its visitors. The ziggurat has five sanctuary towers arranged in a quincunx, built on the uppermost level of five-tier pyramid consisting of overlapping terraces, the four stairways that lead on the summit are continuous and very steep.

We were actually holding our breath when we climbed the pyramid, this one is an acrophobic worst nightmare. It took us several minutes to decide if we will take the risk of climbing the steep stairs wall. Not to mention the warning posted at the entrance isn’t really cooperative and encouraging.

Yet still, we did. I ignored the smoldering sandstone as we crawled up with a  cat grip. I also told myself not to look down. Few notches before the summit, I did. Vertigo was not welcome in that particular situation, looking down made me pray and grab anything I could to hold on to dear life.

I described Banteay Srei as Petrified Lace, while Ta Keo as an Ancient Lego. A contrasting representation of the rich and strong culture of the lost civilization. A perfect symbolism of the Angkor’s glorious past: elaborate, flaunting, massive and impregnable, a balance between the finesse and the robust.

There is such a thing as being lost to reality. A reality spun by ancient dream weavers so that what you see is a reflection of what used to be. Angkor’s magic is like such, and we were willing to get lost in its web. 

Banteay Srei, also known as the ‘Citadel of Women’ or ‘Citadel of Beauty’ because of its intricate carvings, was said to have been dedicated to Yajnyavahara, a courtier of King Rajendravarman, who was known for his philantrophy. Originally known as Tribhuvanamahesvara — great lord of the threefold world, the temple is greatly dedicated to Shiva and partly to Vishnu.  

The carvings are more pronounced here than anywhere else as the great Hindu stories of the old lend themselves to the the red sandstone from which the temple is made of. The pediments, the roughly triangular spaces above rectangular doorways or openings, depict scenes from Ramayana while lintels, horizontal beams spanning the gap between two posts, support the reliefs and at the same time, decorate doorways with carvings of numerous apsara dancers. 

A few minutes of tuk-tuk ride and we found ourselves rounding the pools of Neak Pean meaning ‘The Entwined Serpents’ or ‘Coiled Serpents’, deriving the name from the Nagas (snakes) that encirle the temple. King Jayavarman VII had this built for medical purposes. The Hindu belief of balance is shown with the presence of four pools representing Earth (elephant), Wind (man), Fire (lion) and Water (horse). They are connected by the main pool at the center where the statue of Bahala (Bodhisattva Guan Yin transformed into a horse) ferries the people to safety.  

We are long gone from the surreal world that is Angkor, but the images are as real as if I can touch them in a handspan. We can’t wait to be lost in her arms once again…

Once, Shiva, a very powerful god, grew tired of the cycle of life and death and reincarnations. He decided to give up the pleasures of life and he smeared his body in ash and he didnt eat or drink or indulge in any physical pleasure. This created a terrible fire within him. It transformed him into a blazing lingam which threatened to destroy all creation. The other gods didnt know what to do. A yoni appeared, the symbol of the goddess. She absorbed Shiva’s terrible heat, restoring balance to the world and saving the universe from destruction. Thus is the one of the many origins of the Shiva Lingam.

Phnom Kulen which houses Kbal Spean, otherwise known as ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’ or ‘Bridgehead’ is located 50 kilometers northeast of Siem Reap. A 45-minute hike is required to get to the temple which predates the construction of Angkor Wat by 200 years. The trail was steep and Ron and I were sweating like fabulous pigs…

 The river found in the mountains is the source of the Siem Reap River. The lingas were carved to bless the water that would eventually flow past Bayon continuing to Bantea Srei and into the plains of Angkor. 

Aside from the ligams carved on the face of the riverbed, an impresive carving of the trimurti of Hindu gods can be seen. Vishnu is seen reclining to give birth to Brahma from a lotus growing out of his navel. Shiva with his consort Uma is also present.

In 2003, the head of Vishnu was robbed. It was restored August 2006.

It was early morning when Monette literally pulled me out of the bed. We need to rush to Srah Srang in time for the break of dawn to witness the rumored “best place to see the sunrise.” According to most tourists: the most popular place during sunrise is Angkor Wat. So that means everyone is expected to flood the temple, and to avoid the crowd, we took the other path, a crowd like that of Phnom Bahkeng during sunset will defeat the purpose of watching the sunrise.

TIP: Most tuk tuk driver will be familiar with Srah Srang. If you are on a packaged tour, your tour coach may also stop by here for you to have a look. However, you are likely to see it somewhere in the day time, not the perfect time for shutterbugs. Some may charge an additional $5-$10 if you want to go there before sunrise. If you’re traveling independently from Siem Reap, the fastest way to reach Srah Srang is to take the road from Siem Reap to Angkor Wat. When you see the moat of Angkor Wat, turn right (turning left takes you to Angkor Thom). After a short distance, you will pass Prasat Kravan on your right. After another distance you will see Banteay Kdei on the left, and Srah Srang on the right.

Srah Srang is right in front of Banteay Kdei (Dancers’ Hall)

It was our third day in Siem Reap. Misty-humid (relatively clean) air of summer night penetrated every single alveolar sac of my lungs. Upon waking-up and after a quick shower, I grabbed my sling bag, passport, wallet, a bottle of water and my camera. I jumped off Prohm Roth Hotel in my mismatched outfit,  Piron (our Tuktuk driver) was waiting outside flashing a big smile as usual.

Two blocks away after hitting the road, we realized that the ascaris lumbricoides’ in our guts were already begging for food. So we stopped at the town center to grab something to eat, early morning vendors are selling freshly baked baguettes and French bread. I suddenly missed our pan de sal in Sampaloc (darn).

Still sluggish and half awake, Monette and I tried covering our faces with towel to prevent ingesting flying insects hitting our faces as we run 90 kph across the highway in the middle of the lush forest. In no time, we reached the 900 year old man made lake, around 10-15 tourists (and an army of vendors, mostly kids) were already in the site, excited first timers like us were either setting-up cameras or choosing a good spot for meditation. I stood at the edge of the flatform landing facing the glassy water of the baray—a good vantage point to watch and take pictures of the sunrise.

Then we waited…

When the sun starts peeking out the horizon, everyone froze, speechless and jaws dropped on the floor. In a matter of minutes, we saw the color of the sky changed seamlessly.

From jet black to prussian to palatinate to crimsons to salmon to vermilion to chartreuse

It was truly the best sunrise that I witnessed to date.

It’s very timely to post this at the eve of the turn of the decade. The experience at Srah Srang was revitalizing, a metaphor of rebirth and fresh start. Like the sun kissing the new day ahead, anticipating the arrival of the morning light made me reflect not only on the recent days but the year that was.

I felt brand new.

The second decade of the 21^st century is here.

HAPPY NEW DECADE EVERYONE!

GO 2010!
oooh, 2010—so Jetsons! love it!

The most faithful of all kisses is that of the sun on the rock. The sun’s rays would touch upon its face, never leaving it till it sets. And even at that, when the sun lends it’s light on the other side of the earth, and the earth is no more, there is still the rock and the kiss that never betrays…

The sun sets on our first day in Cambodia as we were led by a steady crowd up the stairs of Phnom Bakheng. It served as King Yasovarman I’s state temple at the center of the new capital city Yasodharapura. It’s foundation, carved from the existing hill rather than the usual laterites and earthfill other temples used.

After a long day’s tour of different temples in Siem Reap, tourists would converge to this hilltop to end the day in longing. Overlooking Tonle Sap Lake and Angkor Wat in a distance, one can hear the stones creak a silent music you only hear when you close your eyes while everyone bled in red, blue and orange.

walking downhill

elephant rides range from $10US-$15US

child selling trinkets

monks waiting for the end of the world

We were drowning in colors.

Angkor Wat is comparable to Parthenon and the Coliseum. With it’s rich culture and history you would feel its soul haunting every block of stone of its temples. After several youtube clips and books I have read prior to our trip to Cambodia, I felt that every inch of Angkor Wat’s ornate wall got a story to tell.

So here’s a walk through on the first temple that we visited.

Angkorian temples follow an architectural model. Based on a unique combination of the temple mountain, the standard design for the empire’s state temples, the later plan of concentric galleries, and influences from Orissa and the Chola of Tamil Nadu, India. The temple is a representation of Mount Meru, the home of the gods: the central quincunx of towers symbolises the five peaks of the mountain, and the walls and moat the surrounding mountain ranges and ocean.

Upon crossing the Moat through a royal causeway, you need to enter a gate, the outer concentric gallery. Angkor Wat is the first one that we visited. And we spent an hour drooling in front of the structure. It was a “choir of angels” moment for us.

Outside the complex, myriads of hawkers and kids selling all sorts of knick knacks ranging from guide books to souvenir photos to framed artworks to bottled water… “ALL IN A PRICE THAT YOU CAN AFFORD! One Dollar.” Seriously, almost everything there is being sold at USD1.

TIP: Never buy water from the kids selling outside the temples. Make sure you buy them from the convenient stores or groceries near your hotel.

We were so amazed by the place, and mind you, we are still in the outer galleries, we haven’t even entered the temple complex yet. Angkor Wat is the most popular temple in Cambodia Indochina. It is the only man made structure that is featured in a national flag.

One prominent theme of Angkorian design is the “Apsaras”. As Rusalkis to Slavic, Valkyries to Norse, Muses and Nymphs to Greek mythology, Apsaras are female spirits of the clouds and waters in Hindu and Buddhist mythology. Descriptions of the temples often distinguish between two types of depictions of female celestials: depictions of figures who are dancing or are poised to dance, which are called “Apsaras;” and depictions of figures who are standing still, facing forward, in the manner of temple guardians or custodians, which are called “Devatas.” which could be the origin of the word “Diwata” of the Filipino folklore.

Upon entering the first Gopura (Gate) of the the outer gallery, you will be welcomed by the breathtaking view of the causeway leading to the Prasat of the temple. It was dark under the Gopura, making every entrance a “hallelujah” moment.

Walking across the causeway felt like we are on a ritual parade which is pretty much an everyday activity during the glorious days of Angkor. It’s 100,000 sqm complex housed around 20,000 people who worked as ministers, servants and dancers, so a presence of other stone structures is not a surprise. Midway across the procession road are the “Libraries,”  no one knows if it really houses books nor what it’s real purpose are. But each of more than a hundred temples got these bilateral identical structures.

Stone guardians resembling those of Egyptian sphinx and French Gargoyles are stationed in the cruciform bridge before entering the temple flat form.

Every temple also got a signature window colonnettes. It serves as an identity of the architectural period and a signature of the complex.

The inner gallery is where you will find more than 1,000 square meters of bas relief depicting the great Mahabharata epic. A continues story is carved in the gallery wall around the temple, from the churning of the sea of milk to the Judgment of the dead. So we advise to brush-up on this Indian Literature before booking a flight to Siem Reap.

Climbing up the temple flatform is not as easy as it may seem. Steps are small and piddly, less than a half of a normal stair steps and the sharp incline of around 45 degrees made climbing for people with vertigo NOT a good idea.  Oh well, they said it’s hard to climb the stairs to heaven, but the way to hell us just a slip away. Made sense.

A ceremonial cloister of what appears to be a swimming pool can be found inside the temple. Buddhist statues are displayed inside, which made this a popular destination among pilgrims. It’s sad to see though, that the old statues are all headless, tourists in the past beheaded them to sell the artifacts to the black market. tsk tsk tsk…

This temple served as a mausoleum of King Suryavarman II. The vast span of this complex and the grandiosity of the temple is ironically exclamated by the fact that the center of it all is just a small enclosed room right under the central prasat.

Again, Angkor Wat is just one of more than a hundred structures in a complex as big as Los Angeles. I can’t comprehend how a strong civilization capable of building these magnificent buildings suddenly disappeared and abandoned this city that is larger than life.

Amazing, isn’t it?